Alto Molocue war damageThere is some war damage still to be seen. A broken building in Alto Molocue and busted bridges along the road. The piles of wrecked vehicles have at last been removed.There are no more teenagers with AK47's lurking in the bushes on the Komatipoort - Maputo road. We met one victim who was attacked back in 1995 and received gunshot wounds with the driver shot dead.



Never used bridge


Combat school MocubaThe survivor was invited by the Mocambique authorities to an identity parade some months later and he suspects that the two youngsters he identified were immediately taken behind the building and shot dead.

There is no longer a danger from landmines provided you are travelling on the main roads. The locals walk, or ride, their bicycles everywhere and have detonated most landmines in populated areas. But if you insist on bundu bashing then you may have a problem. Scotty at Mocuba had a timber concession where his men have detonated 3 anti-personnel mines, and removed several others.

A special land-mine removal team run by the Mozambiquan Government is systematically working its way through the country. Near Pemba suspect zones, including deserted villages, are marked with sticks ringed in red and blue.

Castle gaol at Alto Ligonha1Inselberg

Vista near Nampula


Sena BridgeShire FerryAt Sena 100 kms west of Caia there is an old railway bridge across the Zambesi which served as a road bridge for many years. Sena is the original capital of Zambesi province. The bridge is 3 kilometers long and only wide enough for one car, either way. In 2006 it was closed to road traffic and is now being converted back to carrying railway trains. It made for a colourful road journey in the days when it was open to cars: There were Government control posts at both ends with radios. the driver was handed a radio set to call for help if he had a problem. He handed it back on the other side. Having gotten over the bridge one then had to cross the ferry on the Shire river. This is a well run operation (notably no bribes and no queue jumping and you go off facing the same way you came on). However, one traveller reported arriving there to find that the Shire pont cables had been stolen!. He turned around and went through Malawi. We went the Sena/Shire route in June 2003 after the Caia Zambesi ferry had "sunk" for the second time that year (the day before we got there). We arrived at the Shire too late to cross the same day so we camped amongst the truck drivers and mosquitoes for the night. The scenery is magnificent. However, the 240 kms of very bad dirt roads make one cautious about a second attempt. The road runs from the ferry through Murrumbala and then east to join the Caia-Quelimane tar at Rozendo. The AA map does not show this road at all.

Tete Zambesi BridgeSome people still prefer to travel the old route on the tar road across the Zambesi bridge at Tete, through Malawi to the Milanje border post. After Milanje there is 200 kilometers of good dirt to Mocuba. With the new road bridge at Caia the advantages of travelling through Malawi are no longer so obvious. We have also had a report (2007) that the tar road from Chimoio to Tete is very badly potholed.


Tete ferry 1965 3Tete Old Fort

Nampula cathedralCathedral congregation Alto Ligonha

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